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Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:44 pm
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#24587  Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:17 am |
SammyBoy
| Location: | Behind You |
| Drives: | a tank |
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| Joined: | 13 Sep 2006 |
| Posts: | 825 |
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Cause and Effect Guide
RIDE AND ROLL RESISTANCE-SPRING
Too much spring: overall
■ Harsh and choppy ride
■ Much unprovoked sliding
■ Car will not put power down on corner exit - excessive wheel-spin
Relatively too much spring: front
■ Understeer - although the car may initially point in well
■ Front breaks loose over bumps in corners
■ Front tyres lock while braking over bumps
Relatively too much spring: rear
■ Oversteer immediately on application of power
■ Excessive wheel-spin
Too little spring: overall
■ Car contacts the track a lot
■ Floating ride with excess vertical chassis movement, pitch and roll
■ Sloppy and inconsistent response
■ Car slow to take a set � may take more than one
Relatively too little spring: rear
■ Excessive squat on acceleration accompanied by excessive rear negative camber, leading to oversteer and poor power down characteristics
■ Tendency to fall over on outside rear tyre and "flop" into oversteer and wheel-spin
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Too much anti-roll bar: overall
■ Car will be very sudden in response and will have little feel
■ Car will tend to slide or skate rather than taking a set - especially in slow and medium speed corners
■ Car may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps
Relatively too much anti-roll bar: front
■ Corner entry understeer which usually becomes progressively worse as the driver tries to tighten the corner radius.
Relatively too much anti-roll bar: rear
■ If the imbalance is extreme can cause corner entry oversteer
■ Corner exit oversteer. Car won't put down power but goes directly to oversteer due to inside wheel-spin
■ Excessive sliding on corner exit
■ Car has a violent reaction to major bumps and may be upset by "FIA" kerbs
Too little anti-roll bar: overall
■ Car is lazy in response, generally sloppy
■ Car is reluctant to change direction in chicane and esses
Relatively too little anti-roll bar: front
■ Car "falls over" onto outside tyre on corner entry and then washes out into understeer
■ Car is lazy in direction changes
Relatively too little anti-roll: rear
■ My own opinion is that on most road courses a rear anti-roll bar is a bad thing. Anti-roll bars transfer lateral load from the unladen tyre to the laden tyre - exactly what we don't want at the rear. I would much rather use enough spring to support the rear of the car. The exception comes when there are "washboard ripples" at corner exits, as on street circuits and poorly paved road circuits.
SHOCK ABSORBER FORCES
Too much shock: overall
■ A very sudden car with harsh ride qualities, much sliding and wheel patter
■ Car will not absorb road surface irregularities but crashes over them
Too much rebound force
■ Wheels do not return quickly to road surface after displacement. Inside wheel in a corner may be pulled off the road by the damper while still loaded
■ Car may "jack down" over bumps or in long corners causing a loss of tyre compliance. Car does not power down well at exit of corners when road surface is not extremely smooth
Too much bump force: general
■ Harsh reaction to road surface irregularities.
■ Car slides rather than sticking
■ Car doesn't put power down well - driving wheels hop.
Too much low piston speed bump force
■ Car's reaction to steering input too sudden
■ Car's reaction to lateral and longitudinal load transfer too harsh
Too much high piston speed bump force
■ Car's reaction to minor road surface irregularities too harsh - tyres hop over "chatter bumps" and ripples in braking areas and corner exits.
Too little shock: overall
■ Car floats a lot (the Cadillac ride syndrome) and oscillates after bumps
■ Car dives and squats a lot
■ Car rolls quickly in response to lateral acceleration and may tend to "fall over" onto the outside front tyre during corner entry and outside rear tyre on corner exit.
■ Car is generally sloppy and unresponsive
Too little rebound force: overall
■ Car floats - oscillates after bumps (the Cadillac ride syndrome)
Too little bump force: overall
■ Initial turn in reaction soft and sloppy
■ Excessive and quick roll, dive and squat
Too little low piston speed bump force
■ Car is generally imprecise and sloppy in response to lateral (and, to a lesser extent longitudinal) accelerations and to driver steering inputs
Too little high piston speed bump force
■ Suspension may bottom over the largest bumps on the track resulting in momentary loss of tyre contact and excessive instantaneous loads on suspension and chassis
Dead shock on one corner
■ A dead shock is surprisingly difficult for a driver to identify and/or isolate
- At the rear, the car will "fall over" onto the outside tyre and oversteer in one direction only
- At the front, the car will "fall over" onto the outside tyre on corner entry and then understeer.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Front toe-in: too much
■ Car darts over bumps, under heavy braking and during corner entry - is generally unstable
■ Car won't point into corners, or if extreme. May point in very quickly and then dart and wash out
Front toe-out: too much
■ Car wanders under heavy braking and may be somewhat unstable in a straight line, especially in response to single wheel or diagonal bumps and/or wind gusts
■ Car may point into corners and then refuse to take a set
■ If extreme will cause understeer tyre drag in long corners
Rear toe-in: too little
■ Power on oversteer during corner exit
Rear toe-in: too much
■ Rear feels light and unstable during corner entry. Car slides through corners rather than rolling freely
Rear toe-out: any
■ Power oversteer during corner exit and (maybe) in a straight line
■ Straight line instability
Front wheel caster or trail: too little
■ Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
■ Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
■ Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
■ General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
Front wheel caster or trail: uneven
■ Steering effort is harder in one direction than in the other
■ Car will "pull" towards the side with less caster - good on ovals, bad on road courses
Camber: too much negative
■ Inside of tyre excessively hot and/or wearing too rapidly. At the front this will show up as reduced braking capability and at the rear as reduced acceleration capability. Depending on the racetrack and the characteristics of the individual tyre, inside temperature should be 10°-25° hotter than the outside. Use a real pyrometer with a needle rather than an infra red surface temperature device.
Camber: not enough negative
■ Outside of tyre will be hot and wearing. This should never be and is almost always caused by running static positive camber at the rear in an effort to avoid the generation of excessive negative camber under the influence of aero download at high speed.
- A better solution is improved geometry and increased spring rate. Dynamic positive camber will always degrade rear tyre performance and if extreme, can cause braking instability and/or corner exit oversteer.
Bump steer, front: too much toe-in in bump
■ Car darts over bumps and understeers on corner entry
Bump steer, front: too much toe-out in bump
■ Car wanders under brakes and may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps
■ Car may understeer after initial turn in
Bump steer, rear: too much toe-in in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel)
■ Roll understeer on corner entry
■ Mid phase corner understeer
■ "Tiptoe" instability when trail braking
■ Darting on power application on corner exit
Bump steer, rear: too much toe-out in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel)
■ Instability on acceleration
■ Good turn in followed by a tendency to oversteer at mid-phase and exit
TYRES
Too much tyre pressure
■ Harsh ride, excessive wheel patter, sliding and wheel-spin
■ High temperature reading and wear at the centre of the tyre
Too little tyre pressure
■ Soft and mushy response
■ Reduced footprint area and reduced traction
■ High temperatures with a dip in the centre of the tread
Front tyres "going off"
■ Gradually increasing understeer - Enter corners slower, get on power earlier with less steering lock
Rear tyres "going off"
■ Gradually increasing power on oversteer - Try to carry more speed through corner and be later and more gradual with power application
LIMITED SLIP MALADIES
Limited slip differential wearing out
■ Initial symptoms are decreased power on understeer or increased power on oversteer and inside wheel spin. The car might be easier to drive, but it will be slow
- When wear becomes extreme, stability under hard acceleration from low speed will diminish and things will not be pleasant at all
Excessive cam or ramp angle on coast side plate (clutch pack) limited slip differential
■ Corner entry, mid-phase and corner exit understeer. Incurable with geometry changes or rates - must change differential ramps. In 1998, virtually everyone is running 0/0 or 80/80 ramps.
SUSPENSION GEOMETRY
Excessive front scrub radius (steering offset)
■ Excessive steering effort accompanied by imprecise and inconsistent "feel" and feedback
Excessive roll centre lateral envelope: front or rear
■ Non-linear response and feel to steering input and lateral "G" (side force) generation
Rear roll centre too low (or front r/c relatively too high)
■ Roll axis too far out of parallel with mass centroid axis, leading to non-linear generation of lateral load transfer and chassis roll as well as the generation of excessive front jacking force.
■ Tendency will be towards understeer
Rear roll centre too high (or front r/c relatively too low)
■ Opposite of above, tending towards excessive jacking at the rear and oversteer
Front track width too narrow relative to rear
■ Car tends to "trip over its front feet" during slow and medium speed corner entry, evidenced by lots of understeer (remember trying to turn your tricycle?)
- Crutch is to increase front ride rate and roll resistance and increase the camber curves in the direction of more negative camber in bump (usually by raising the front roll centre)
INSTABILITY
Straight line instability: general
■ Rear wheel toe-out, either static due to incorrect (or backwards) setting, or dynamic due to bump steer or deflection steer
■ Vast lack of rear download or overwhelming preponderance of front download
■ Wild amount of front toe-in or toe-out
■ Loose or broken chassis, suspension member or suspension link mounting point
■ Dead shock absorber
Straight line instability: under hard acceleration
■ Malfunctioning limited slip differential
■ Insufficient rear toe-in
■ Deflection steer from rear chassis/suspension member or mounting point
■ Rear tyre stagger (car pulls to one side)
■ Dead rear shock absorber
■ Wildly uneven corner weights
Straight line instability: car darts over bumps (especially one wheel bumps)
■ Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
■ Excessive front toe-in or toe-out
■ Uneven front caster or trail settings
■ Insufficient rear wheel droop travel
■ Dead shock or uneven shock forces or incorrectly adjusted packers/bump rubbers
■ Wildly uneven corner weights
■ Front anti-roll bar miles too stiff
Instability under hard braking: front end wanders
■ Excessive front brake bias or uneven corner weights or excessive front damper rebound force
Instability under hard braking: car wants to spin
■ Excessive rear brake bias
■ Insufficient rear droop travel
■ Wildly uneven corner weights
■ Excessive rear damper rebound force
■ Unbalanced ride/roll resistance - too much at rear
■ Insufficient rear camber (usually in combination with one or more of the above)
RESPONSE
Car feels generally too heavy and unresponsive
■ Tyre pressures too low
■ Insufficient ride and/or roll resistance (springs and bars)
■ Excessive aerodynamic download, or insufficient spring for the amount of download
- If high speed acceleration is sluggish, the culprit is often too large a rear wing Gurney lip
Car feels sloppy, is slow to take a set in corners, rolls a lot, doesn't want to change direction
■ Insufficient tyre pressure
■ Insufficient damper forces
■ Car too soft in ride and/or roll
Car responds too quickly "has little feel" slides at the slightest provocation
■ Excessive tyre pressure
■ Excessive bump force in shock absorbers
■ Car too stiff for inexperienced driver
■ Excessive ride or roll resistance
■ Excessive front or rear toe-in
■ Insufficient aerodynamic download
UNDERSTEER
Corner entry understeer: car initially points in and then washes out
■ Excessive toe-in or toe-out (car is usually "darty")
■ Insufficient front droop travel (non droop limited cars only)
■ Incorrectly adjusted packers (car rolls on to packers)
■ Insufficient front damper bump resistance (similar to roll stiffness example)
■ Insufficient front roll stiffness - car may feel like it is pointing in but may actually be falling over onto the outside front tyre due to insufficient front roll stiffness or diagonal load transfer under heavy trail braking. Initial understeer can often be cured by increasing front roll resistance, even though doing so may increase the amount of lateral load transfer.
■ Non linear lateral load transfer due to spring and/or bar geometry. Or to non-optimal roll axis inclination
Corner entry understeer: car won't point in and gets progressively worse
■ Driver braking too hard, too late
■ Relatively narrow front track width
■ Excessive front tyre pressure
■ Excessive front roll stiffness (spring or bar)
■ Relative lack of front download (excessive rear download)
■ Incorrectly adjusted packers or bump rubbers (car rolls onto packers)
■ Insufficient front toe-in
■ Insufficient Ackermann effect in steering geometry
■ Front roll centre too high or too low
■ Insufficient front damper bump force
■ Insufficient front toe-out
■ Insufficient front wheel droop travel (on non droop limited cars only)
■ Nose being "sucked down" due to ground effect
■ Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
■ Can also be caused by unloading the front tyres due to rearward load transfer under acceleration - cures include:
- Increasing front damper rebound force
- Increasing rear damper low speed damper rebound force
- Increasing rear anti-squat
- Droop limiting front suspension (will also make turn in more positive and will reduce overall understeer)
Mid-corner (mid-phase) understeer
■ Excessive front tyre pressure
■ Excessive relative front roll stiffness
■ Excessive front toe (in or out)
■ Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
■ Insufficient front dynamic camber
■ Relatively narrow front track width
■ Insufficient front wheel travel (car rolls onto packers or bottomed shock)
■ Insufficient droop travel (on non droop limited cars)
Corner exit understeer: slow corners
■ Often a function of excessive corner entry and mid-phase understeer (whether driver induced or car induced) followed by throttle application whilst maintaining the understeer steering lock. The first step must be to cure the corner entry and mid-phase understeer. If this is impractical, then corner entry speed should be reduced slightly in order to allow earlier throttle application. Sometimes we have to be patient.
Corner exit understeer: fast corners
■ Relative lack of front download - often caused by negative pitch angle (squat) due to rearward load transfer on acceleration. Can be helped by increasing rear anti-squat and/or by increasing rear low speed bump force, increasing front droop force and by limiting the front suspension droop travel.
■ Relatively narrow front track width
■ Excessive ramp angle or pre-load on clutch pack or plate type limited slip differentials.
Understeer stronger in one direction than in the other
■ Uneven corner weights
■ Uneven caster
■ Uneven camber (especially front)
OVERSTEER
Corner Entry Oversteer
■ Excessively heavy trail braking
■ Excessive rearward brake bias
■ Severe rearward ride rate/roll resistance imbalance
■ Rear roll centre too high
■ Diabolical lack of rear download
■ Severely limited rear droop travel
■ Broken or non-functioning outside rear damper
■ Broken or non-functioning front anti-roll bar
Note: A slight feeling of rear "tiptoe" type hunting on corner entry can be due to excessive rear toe-in or excessive rear damper rebound force.
Mid-corner (mid-phase) oversteer
■ Driver threw the car at the corner to get through initial understeer - only cure is to educate the driver and/or decrease understeer
■ Excessive rear tyre pressure
■ Excessive relative rear ride and/or roll stiffness
■ Rear suspension bottoming in roll
■ Insufficient rear droop travel (non droop limited cars only)
■ Very loose rear anti-roll bar linkage
Corner exit oversteer: gets progressively worse from the time the power is applied
■ Worn out limited slip differential
■ Excessive anti-squat geometry
■ Excessive rear ride and/or roll stiffness
■ Insufficient rear spring, bar or shock (low piston speed bump force) allowing the car to "fall over" onto outside rear tyre
■ Excessive rear negative camber
■ Too little dynamic rear toe-in
■ Relatively insufficient rear download
Note: If car feels as though it is sliding through the corner rather than rolling freely, reduce the rear toe-in and see what happens.
Corner exit oversteer "sudden" - car seems to take a normal exit set and then breaks loose
■ Insufficient rear suspension travel (lifting the inside wheel on non droop limited cars or bottoming the outside suspension due to lack of bump travel)
■ Incorrectly adjusted packers
■ Dead rear damper
■ Sudden change in outside rear tyre camber
■ Too much throttle applied too soon - often after the drivers confidence has been boosted by the car taking a set.
Car does not put the power down smoothly on the exit of smooth corners
■ Worn out limited slip differential
■ Excessive rear ride/roll resistance
■ Excessive anti-squat geometry
■ Excessive rear tyre pressure
■ Tyres gone
■ Excessive rear damper low piston speed bump force
■ Excessive rear dynamic camber - either from download or from camber change on squat
■ Relative lack of rear download
Car does not put the power down on the exit of bumpy corners
■ Any or all of the above for smooth corners
■ Excessive rear damper high piston speed force
■ Excessive rear damper rebound force (jacking down)
■ Insufficient rear droop travel
TRANSITIONS
Understeer in, snap to oversteer on power application
■ The most common complaint of all! Usually caused by too little roll resistance - car falls over on entry and then snaps.
- Increase front bar and/or spring and/or front damper low piston speed bump force. Stiffening the bar will also transfer some load on to the inside rear tyre on acceleration.
- If the suggestion above cures the understeer but the car still snaps, the culprit is almost always the car falling over on the outside rear tyre on longitudinal plus lateral load transfer. Add rear bar or spring. Bar will transfer load away from the inside rear tyre. Spring will not. Spring will, however, decrease traction over exit bumps while bar will not.
■ Loose anti-roll bar linkage/blade sockets can have the exactly same effect
Car is slow to change directions in chicanes or esses
■ Insufficient ride/roll stiffness, especially at front.
■ Relatively narrow front track width.
■ Insufficient front damper low piston speed bump force.
_________________
SammyBoy =)
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#24596 Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:23 am |
SammyBoy
| Location: | Behind You |
| Drives: | a tank |
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| Joined: | 13 Sep 2006 |
| Posts: | 825 |
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Heres one especialy for Jay T-Rex, an article on Det
What It Is
Engine detonation occurs when the air/fuel mix ignites within the combustion chamber in an uncontrolled manner, instead of by the progressive action of a moving flame front. The terms 'ping' (a light, barely observable detonation) and 'pre-detonation' (detonation caused by the ignition of the charge slightly before the full ignition of the flame front by the spark plug) are also commonly used. 'Knock' is another synonym.
One definition of knock is "an undesirable mode of combustion that originates spontaneously and sporadically in the engine, producing sharp pressure pulses associated with a vibratory movement of the charge and the characteristic sound from which the phenomenon derives its name". If detonation is allowed to go on for more than few seconds, the very sudden pressure changes within the cylinder can damage the engine. In a worse case scenario, pistons, rings and even the head itself can suffer major damage. Obviously, heavy detonation is something to be avoided! Note also that the higher the specific power output of the engine (ie hp per litre), the greater the likelihood of damage if detonation occurs.
In everyday driving, detonation is most likely to be heard when the driver is using a gear too high for the engine speed and load conditions - like climbing a steep hill with the right foot flat to the floor, while in third gear and travelling at 40 km/h. Depending on the engine, detonation can sound like a 'ting, ting' noise, or even a little like coins rattling in a coin tray. However, in some engines, the audible note is much deeper when heard from the cabin. In turbo/blown cars, or cars where the compression ratio has been substantially increased, detonation can occur at high engine speed and high loads, making it very difficult for the driver to hear it over the general noise level that's present at the time.
Electronic Detonation Sensing
Engine detonation can be electronically sensed by any of the following means:
pressure sensor installed flush with the combustion chamber
pressure sensor connected to the spark plug
temperature measurement at the cylinder wall
acceleration sensor, frequency tuned
acceleration sensor, not frequency tuned
force measurement at the cylinder head bolt by the use a special washer
deformation measurement at the head of the cylinder head bolt
spark plug with a ring made of piezo ceramics
ionic current measuring method
Of these approaches the most commonly used are acceleration sensors, which make use of piezo ceramics. The sensor is mounted directly on the block, and so listens for sounds transmitted through the structure of the engine. Unfortunately, numerous frequencies in addition to typical detonation frequencies are contained within this noise! However, the use of piezo ceramic sensors has proven to be the most practical method of detecting detonation.
Differentiating the sound of engine detonation from the noise of valves opening and closing, pistons rising and falling, cam chains clanking and general under-bonnet noises has proved to be the hardest part of detecting when detonation is occurring. One way to reduce this problem of sorting the wheat from the chaff is to decrease the time for which the sensor is actually listening. The major noise of detonation for a specific cylinder occurs from shortly after the piston reaches Top Dead Centre on its power stroke to between 60 - 90 crankshaft degrees later. If the detonation signal is allowed pass through to the detection circuit and be averaged only when each piston is in this position, the accuracy of detonation detection improves. Crankshaft position sensing then obviously becomes an important part of this approach.
The signal developed by a sensor is processed so those signals that (hopefully!) aren't detonation are filtered out. This is achieved by the use of an approximately 10KHz wide bandpass filter. Beyond the bandpass filter the signal is commonly split into two paths - one branch going on to become an averaged reference signal, with the other signal compared with the reference only during the periods when each piston is in the right position for accurate detonation sensing. A 'detonation detected' outcome leads to a retard in ignition timing in most factory engine management systems.
Aftermarket Detonation Sensing
As you will have by now realised, electronically sensing when detonation is occurring is not at all simple. A number of aftermarket approaches are taken to this problem. Most typical is a general-purpose detonation sensor that is mechanically attached to the block, with its signal output being monitored by a dedicated meter. The meter can display either by means of a bargraph LED display or an analogue needle the severity of detected detonation.
One example of this type of approach can be seen in the Safeguard, an interceptor-type module that uses an added knock sensor to detect detonation. Not only is the severity of detonation shown on a row of LEDs, but the appropriate retarding of the ignition timing can also be programmed to occur. Two knock sensors are available to work with the system, with the sensor being selected on the basis of cylinder bore diameter.
I was present when Turbo Tune (Adelaide, Australia) dyno-tested a Safeguard unit on a VL Holden Commodore Turbo. The car was running high boost and advanced timing - enough to make it detonate when the non-intercooled air hit the combustion chambers. In order that the dyno operator (sitting in the car under test) could ascertain when detonation really was occurring, he was wearing a set of headphones connected to an amplifier box. The amplifier was fed by a microphone, which in turn was physically connected to the engine block.
Detonation Frequency
The reverberation resonance generated by detonation generally lies in the range between 2 and 12KHz. The following equation can be used to estimate the detonation resonant frequency for a specific engine.
Detonation resonant frequency = 900
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.14 x cylinder radius
Where the resonant frequency is measured in Hertz and the cylinder radius in metres.
Now the interesting point is that the dyno operator - listening directly to the engine - could detect when detonation was occurring well before the piezo knock sensor and dedicated electronic module could hear it! (Overall the Safeguard didn't work terribly well, the salesman - probably quite correctly - suggesting that the particular knock sensor being used wasn't a good match for the engine.)
Another aftermarket approach is to use the factory knock sensor and its dedicated signal conditioning board - the GM-Delco system is one example that lends itself to this. With this approach, the knock sensor board is modified with a transistor and a LED to indicate when knock is being detected by its matched sensor. While ingenious, this approach falls down when the knock sensor is used on engines other than that which it was designed to match. In fact, one person stated to me of this system "It certainly works - the LED was flashing when I could hear detonation...." which makes you wonder why the electronic knock sensor was needed in the first place!
In Australia, Jaycar Electronics have sold a knock detector kit developed by Silicon Chip magazine. This uses the input of a fabricated or factory knock detector, with the electronic inputs including an ignition input signal so that listening only occurs in the right piston positions. As a contributor to that magazine, I was involved in specifying the design of this system, and also tested it in action on turbo cars. And so I'm in a good position to state that the detector is not very good at picking high-rpm knock! As with so many knock detection systems, the problem is that the sensor will detect general engine noise - rather than detonation - if engine rpm is high.
Conclusion
The detection of detonation on a variety of engines - especially during tuning or testing - is most easily and accurately carried out using audio detection. If you can hear the sound, detonation is occurring. While appearing simplistic, audio monitoring beats all other systems when the knock detection method needs to be able to be applied to a variety of engines.
_________________
SammyBoy =)
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